Hampi and beyond - Day 1

We took the train to Hospet and then a taxi to Hampi.  The guest house where we stayed (Mowgli) was across the river from Hampi.  It was surrounded by palm trees and rice paddies with a great view of the river at sun down.  We spent many happy hours sitting on the balcony and watching the sunset!

On our first day in Hampi we walked down to the river and took the local boat across.  There were other types of boats too (round coracles) which looked fun but also a little dangerous!  The river was flowing fast as it was the end of the monsoon period.

Across the river was a huge temple.  This temple has an elephant and each morning the elephant would come down to the river for his bath.

Hampi itself is an ancient place dating back to the Vijayanagara period.  Apparently it was the home of Lord Virupaksha and his consort Pampadevi.  Many of the sites around Hampi are associated with the stories of the Ramayana.  With the river on one side and the rugged hills on the other, Hampi was a natural fortress.  Originally a pilgrim site, Hampi grew to be the seat of a huge empire, and the shops in Hampi Bazaar were once covered in gold.

The Virupaksha Temple is the most sacred of all the temples in Hampi and dates from the 7th century.

Looking back along Hampi Bazaar to the Virupaksha Temple.  Now there are more goats here than people!

The fairly bleak landscape is scattered with the remains of temples and trading centres.

Achutharaya Temples

We walked as far as the Vittala Temple - we could only see it from the outside but knew we would be back to visit it again the following day.

From the Vittala Temple we started out walk back to Hampi.  We went past the King's Balance.  Here the kings on certain occasions such as solar or lunar eclipses would have themselves weighed against their own weight in gold and precious stones and then distribute them to the Brahmanas.

Walking on we came to the old stone bridge which used to cross the river.

On the way we passed several small and beautiful temples.

Our walking tour of Hampi was ending and we were looking forward to visiting the outlying temples by rickshaw the following day.

Going to Goa

After 7 weeks of school we had our first break.  I went to Hampi with Jenni - it's a place that's been on my radar for a while and has been recommended by lots of different people, however it is hard to get there so needed a lot of planning.  The first thing that had to happen was to travel to Goa.  We decided we'd spend a couple of days here before getting the day train to Hampi.

The place we stayed in Goa was lovely.  It had a lovely garden and was very green.  It was in a very quiet place called Benaulim.  We got a taxi to Palm Grove Cottages from the airport.  In the grounds there was the Palm Garden restaurant which served up delicious Goan food (fish and sea food).

The photo above is Jenni doing tree post on the first morning we were there.  This was on the way to breakfast!

We asked about how to get to the beach - it was a little walk from Palm Grove.  This is the road down to the beach - very quiet, no other tourists, just the locals and a lot of water buffalos.

The beach was similarly deserted - with lots of colourful fishing boats.  We wandered right along the beach and hardly saw another soul.

When we got tired of walking we stopped in a small beach bar for lunch.  This was our view.  Once again quiet and peaceful and empty.

Ganapati Bapa Moria!

At this time of year in India there are huge festivals to honour the god Ganesh.  Ganesh statues arrive in people's homes and they spend several days there before being taken to water an immersed.  Ganesh can stay in homes for 3, 5 and 7 days, but the huge immersions happen on the 11th day.  The photo above shows a local family bringing their Ganesh statue home.  It was in the back of a truck being driven down our street (I ran out to take this photo).

The festival begins with the installation of huge statutes of Ganesha in homes and podiums, which have been especially constructed and beautifully decorated. Artisans put months of effort into making the statues.  On Ananta Chaturdasi (the last day), the statues are paraded through the streets, accompanied by much singing and dancing, and then immersed in the ocean or other bodies of water. In Mumbai alone, more than 150,000 statues are immersed each year!

Hindus worship idols, or statues, of their gods because it gives them a visible form to pray to. They also recognize that the universe is in a constant state of change. Form eventually gives away to formlessness. However, the energy still remains. The immersion of the statues in the ocean, or other bodies of water, and subsequent destruction of them serves as a reminder of this belief.  Hindus believe that inviting Ganesh into their homes and then immersing him leads to obstacles being removed and good fortune being brought into the home for the coming year.  The first immersion I went to this year was on the 5th day.  I walked up through the village behind our apartment with Jenni, one of the new teachers, and we went to a lake where the statues were being immersed.  There were family groups standing around their statues, praying, singing, clapping their hands and banging small cymbals.  One family invited me to join in which was great.

The 11th day is the final immersion day.  We were given a half day off school so that we could either go and join in, or get home and stay out of the way of the festivities.  I chose to go and join in.  Jenni and I went to the Marriott on Juhu beach.  

We were able to walk up and down the beach to observe what was happening.  Right outside the Marriott there were many small family Ganesh statues being immersed, but further up the beach there were some big ones arriving.

As the sun started to go down, so did the crowds grow on the beach.  For me one of the most poignant images was the remains of the Ganesh statues from the previous immersions.  Bits of Ganesh, maybe arms or heads, were washed back by the tide and left stranded on the beach.  The idea is that the statues are immersed (visarjan) and left to disintegrate.

The large Ganesh statues take a long time to reach the ocean and be immersed. The slow moving processions commonly start out mid morning and go throughout the night, with the statue only being placed in the water early the next morning. 

Ellora Caves - Another World Heritage Site

The day after visiting the caves at Ajanta, Sharon, Kylie, Jenni and myself drove to Ellora to visit the caves there.  These caves were carved out with a hammer and chisel over 5 centuries by Buddhist, Hindu and Jain monks.

These caves line an escarpment and stretch out over 2kms.  In front of these caves are elaborate courtyards and many of these temples are multi-level.

Cave 10

The earliest caves were Buddhist monasteries (viharas).  These caves also contain statues of Buddhist goddesses including the goddess of learning, Mahamayuri.  The most famous of the Buddhist temples is in Cave 10 which has ceiling ribs carved into the stonework.

The Hindu temples and caves are next.  These ones were cut from the top down, so the builders began with the roof and worked down.  These caves are dedicated to Vishnu and Brahma.  The feel of these caves is very different.  The Buddhist one are very peaceful, but the Hindu ones are more dramatic.  

One of the Hindu caves, the Kailasa Temple, was built to represent Mt Kailasa, Shiva's Himalayan home.  The entire thing was built with hammers and chisels and over 200,000 tonnes of rock had to be removed.

Ajanta Caves - a World Heritage Site

There are 30 caves at Ajanta which line a steep gorge in a horseshoe bend in the Wanghore River.  The caves are beautifully decorated with both paintings and sculptures.  The colours were mostly created from local minerals, though the blue colour is made out of lapis lazuli from Iran.

The caves date from around 500 BC but were only discovered by the British army officer John Smith in 1819.  In typical "yob fashion" he graffitied over one of the beautiful paintings!

The caves were built by Buddhist monks and they contain many Buddhist statues include a reclining Buddha.