Worli Fishing Village

Worli was one of the original 7 islands that formed the city of Mumbai (the land between the islands was later filled in by the British). The original inhabitants were the Koli fisherfolk who still live here in a fishing village which is about 600 years old. Worli is probably one of the most undeveloped parts of Mumbai - here life goes on in its traditional way with the men and women working together to catch, sort, dry and sell the fish. Worli also has one of Mumbai's old forts, originally built by the British in 1675 to defend the bay against enemy ships and pirates. Now the Bandra-Worli Sea Link ends fairly close to the village and I'm sure that the traditional life of the Koli fisherfolk will start to change.

Some of the fishing fleet - with the Bandra-Worli Sea Link in the background.

A Koli woman at a Christian shrine in the village

Worli is one of the most undeveloped parts of Mumbai and by anyone's standards the people are poor - in money terms - but I don't think they count their happiness in money. Their lives are vibrant and the sense of community is one that many around the world would envy.  Here is a narrow alley in the village. They were built like this to prevent pirates being able to easily raid and steal.

Everywhere in the village there are the most vibrant colours!

The men sort the daily catch

Colourful chicks were everywhere

Worli Fort

The contrast between old and new, rich and poor, developed and undeveloped is stark here in Mumbai.

At the market it's the women who sell the fish. Because it's the women who make the money, the men traditionally paid a bride price in Worli (and not the women who had to pay a dowry).

People Watching in Worli

I've developed a real interest in taking photos of people and their lives since moving to India.  The faces of people are so expressive!  Yet often I don't know whether or not to approach people and ask them if I may take their photo.  Do they see this as an intrusion?  Are they wondering why I'm photographing them?  Children and young people are generally keen to have their photos taken, older people not so.  This week on my walk around Worli fishing village I tried to capture the lives of the people by taking their portraits.

This old man was very happy to have his photo taken

This lady was Ok about me taking her photo but didn't want to smile or look at the camera

Making and selling flower garlands

Two ladies selling fish

Children in an alleyway.  They didn't want to come any closer

The man who was standing next to this woman urged me to take her photo .  I asked her "Is this your husband?" She was horrified and said "No!"

This man buys recycled paper by weight.  However he seems to have higher aspirations - look at the way he posed for this photo - I think he'd like to be a Bollywood actor!

Another old lady who wouldn't look at the camera

Does this girl live among the rubbish?  Who knows, but she was happy to have her photo taken.

Children outside their home

Lady and baby

Fisherfolk gathering up their nets

This man really wanted his daughter to smile.  She wouldn't!

Grandma looks after the children

This old lady was sitting combing her hair.  Look at how long it is!

Washing the clothes.  I thought she was cooking in the pot on the fire, but actually she was boiling hot water.

This photo wasn't taken in Worli but at the Hanging Gardens at Malabar Hill.  Just look at how happy this lady is - it shines out of her eyes, even though you can't see her smile.

Dhobi Ghat and Gandhi's House

We have a visiting author in town and today it was my job to show him around.  Our first stop was the Malabar Hill Jain temple where I was able to snap this photo of a grop of women outside.

Dhobi Ghat - Mumbai's outdoor laundry and supposedly the largest laundry in the world.  These tanks are filled each morning with water, and Dhobi's rent them by the day.  They collect washing from apartment buildings, hotels, restaurants and so on and wash, rinse, dry and iron them.  This outdoor laundry is gradually dying out however - people these days have washing machines.  Washing the clothes is very rough (I saw many being beaten on the side of the tanks), and the clothes are hung out in the sunshine which bleaches them.

Our next stop was Gandhi's house - or at least not his house but one where he stayed from 1917 to 1934.  It is now a museum and is full of old photos and also some dioramas upstairs showing key events in his life.  

Finally after all this - we had built up quite an appetite - so we went to a local Gujarat restaurant for a thali lunch.  The word thali means a plate in Hindi and it is a meal made up of various dishes served in small bowls on a round tray.

Wearing a sari to go to a wedding

Last Saturday evening I went to a wedding.  This was an Indian wedding and so everyone here persuaded me that I should dress up and go in a sari.  One of my colleagues took me sari shopping on Monday evening after school.  We went to Dadar where there are lots of sari shops and after trying several and insisting that I wanted a "dark colour" and "not too much bling" I ended up with one that I loved.  The next step was to have a blouse made (which happened at this little hole in the wall shop) and get a petticoat to tuck the sari into.

On Saturday my lovely friend Heeru came over and dressed me in the sari.  Then we had to get into (and out of) a taxi to get to the wedding.  After that I had to dance the night away!  All I had was one pin on the shoulder holding the pallu in place.  I was terrified that I was trip over the pleats at the front, or that I would step on the front and pull the whole thing off!  Despite this I loved wearing my first sari - it made me feel like a green goddess!

Jenny's wedding was really lovely and the reception was HUGE!  For my next wedding I want to go to a very traditional Hindu one.  I wonder who I know who can be persuaded to get married next?

Heritage Walk: Churchgate Station to Malabar Hill

On Sunday, Lex, Sharon and I set off for another of the Mumbai Heritage Walks.  This walk started at Churchgate Station and our first stop was the Oval Maidan.  I think this is where some of the Test Matches are played and the amazing thing about this was that it was very easy to simply walk in and watch a bit of cricket.   The area is surrounded by Art Deco buildings from the 1930s such as the Eros Cinema.

The Western Railway Headquarters by Churchgate Station.

 

From the Oval Maidan we could see the Rajabai Clock Tower of Mumbai University.  It used to chime "Rule Britannia" and "God Save the Queen" at one time (obviously this was changed after the Brits left!). The tower houses the university library and used to be the tallest building in Mumbai.

The Eros Cinema complex was built in 1938 to replicate the cinema halls of London.  From the Oval Maidan we walked along the Veer Nariman Road towards Marine Drive.  This road was lined with interesting Art Deco buildings and used to be called the Miami of Mumbai.

The Hotel Ambassador used to have a revolving restaurant at the top called Pearl of the Orient. We tried to go in, but found it was closed so we stopped for a coffee break at Gaylord's Restaurant - with its delicious bakery and garden coffee shop with white colonial furniture.

This place used to be called Jazz by the Bay where you could hear live jazz music every night, then they started playing different music and called it Not Just Jazz by the Bay. Now it's transformed itself into a Pizza place called Pizza by the Bay.

Once we reached the end of Veer Nariman Road we walked the whole way along Marine Drive.  At the top end of Marine Drive is Chowpatty Beach. At night the whole of Marine Drive is full of neon lights which forms a spectacular view known as the Queen's Necklace.

At the end of Marine Drive we climbed up Malabar Hill to the Hanging Gardens. This is the view looking back along Marine Drive and Chowpatty Beach.